Tuesday, 9 September 2014

Happy Valley - Goose Bay

Onwards to Happy Valley - Goose Bay, most of the road is now paved, but there is a 60 km gravel section and that is where the low tire pressure message appeared on the truck dash, and we found that the rear driver's side tire was flat once we pulled over and stopped.  Many people stopped to see if they could help, we were carrying two spare tires, so it didn't take long to change, especially since it had started to rain a bit.  

We got to Happy Valley - Goose Bay without further mishap, and got a spot with full services at Goose River Lodge & RV Park for two nights, about 15 Km outside of town, close to Gosling Lake. Close to where the Churchill River runs into Lake Melville and hence to the Atlantic Ocean (via Hamilton Inlet), the two communities of Happy Valley - Goose Bay run into each other like Kitchener - Waterloo but on a much smaller scale.  They have two grocery stores, and I was surprised to see that the cost of fruits and vegetables was not that high and gas for the truck was $1.42 /L.  They have a Home Hardware Building Centre, Tim Horton's (with Wifi), and several of the usual fast food restaurants. There was a very interesting store that we went into to look for souvenirs (fridge magnet).  In the lower floor it had a small museum of military paraphenalia dating back to the time when Goose Bay airport was used by the armed forces of several countries during and after WWII.  The store also sold guns, ammo, fishing rods, reels and flies, camouflage wear, and all the camping equipment you might need for a winter hunting trip.  The biggest surprise was a counter with drug testing kits and other drug use related items.


It took a good chunk of the day to find out that the truck flat tire was not fixable and to buy 2 new matching tires of the right size for the back wheels, for the next section of the Trans Labrador Highway.  In the afternoon (which was rainy again), we became tourists and drove to North West River, which is at the end of the asphalt road in this part of Labrador.  We visited the Labrador Interpretation Centre, which had exhibits explaining the history of the four peoples of the land, the Innu, Inuit, Metis and European Settlers. Interestingly they had an art exhibition and one of the paintings looked similar to our view of Labrador City /Wabush from Smokey mountain.  We also stopped at what used to be the Hudson Bay Trading Post which is now a museum.  Some photos below.

Labrador Interpretation Centre


painting of Labrador City dated 1971

Depiction of life in Labrador
Hudson Bay Company building, now a museum
A hunter's "tilt"

Note the size and shape of the snowshoes used in this part of Labrador

model of original Hudson Bay Outpost at North West River

Churchill Falls

Churchill Falls

 After two days at Labrador City, we got back onto Hwy 500, making sure the gas tank was full, and drove to Churchill Falls as we had booked a tour of the Hydroelectric facility for Tuesday morning.  With no RV campground available, we were told to park at the local arena parking lot for the night and use an electrical plug there for cars in winter if we needed electricity.  Churchill Falls is a company town according to our tour guide Karen.  Nalcor Energy is two thirds owned by Newfoundland and Labrador and one third by Québec.  Most people in Churchill Falls work for the company with the exception of the school teachers, store clerks and gas station staff.  Everyone either lives in a rented house ($100.00 a month rent and free electricity) or company dorm.  

From looking at some of the earth dams (there are 88 of them with a total length of 64 km ) and the switching yard at the surface it does not look very spectacular. Opening in 1971, it is one of the largest underground hydroelectric facilities in the world, with 11 turbines, 11 transformers (the older ones were built by Canadian General Electric in Guelph ), producing up to 5,428 megawatts of electricity at full capacity.  All this is housed in enormous tunnels cut out of the granite rock, including 16 Km of road to get equipment and people in and out. On the surface the main hydro transmission lines from the power plant immediately span 6,000 feet across the Churchill River gorge. It was a three hour tour and well worth doing.



Huge reservoir area
Earth dam that you can drive on


Entrance to the facility noting amount of power being generated
Turbine hall the size of 3 soccer fields

Transformer Hall, note the size of the truck 
Safety bus to get workers out in case of need
One of six pylons on each side supporting lines going across the Churchill River



Monday, 8 September 2014

Labrador City / Wabush




Labrador City / Wabush

Labrador City sits among several small lakes, with some small mountains, mainly forested, and then there are the open pit iron mines. There are a couple of indoor malls, one of which has a Metro grocery store, Canadian Tire, Walmart and a large Tim Horton's under one roof.  Further down the road is McDonald's with WiFi. The tours of an iron mine were stopped when RioTinto took over the Iron Ore Company of Canada's mines a few years ago, but there was a display of the process going from the mined rock to the concentrated pellets of iron at the Information Bureau Office, along with some history of the area.  We hiked up Smokey mountain, a local ski hill, which gave us quite a view of the area from the top.

We've made it to Labrador


View of beach and Wabush Iron Mine from Duley Lake

View of Labrador City and Wabush from Smokey Mountain










View of Iron Mine from Wabush

Wednesday, 3 September 2014

La belle province

Travels East :  Day 1 - 4, through Québec, La belle Province

After a quick stop in Toronto to drop off some things Liz and family needed for their trip to Lindsay, we got onto the 401 and kept on going to autoroute 40 in Québec with a couple of rest stops along the way. We managed to manoeuver our way through Montreal in rush hour without taking any wrong turns and stopped at le Marquis RV park, Saint-Sulpice on the north shore of the St. Lawrence river for the night.  Nice quiet campground with all services overlooking the St. Lawrence river. Our neighbour had an interesting mode of transportation. The main shipping lane was behind the island across from the RV park as we did see one freighter slipping by.

Our neighbour at Saint-Sulpice

St. Lawrence River

Day 2 was less of a drive, from Saint-Sulpice to Québec City, via Trois-Rivières on the north shore. We parked our roulette (trailer) at Coop Camping St-Esprit just east of Québec City and drove into the Old City via autoroute 440, which runs along the shore of the river (very impressive).  Unfortunately the weather turned a little showery, but we did walk around the city wall, over to the Château Frontenac, the Promenade, the Citadelle, the Plains of Abraham, and the Québec Legislature building. From the Promenade there is a great view upstream and downstream of the river, the ferry to Lévis on the south shore, and the Bridge to the île d'Orléans  What we missed was the Rue de Petit-Champlain as we did not go down the stairs or funicular to the base of the cliff. 

Chateau Frontenac

Entrance to the Citadelle

View from the Promenade














Day 3.  Continuing on autoroute 40 and then onto Route 138, we stopped to visit the shrine of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, an impressive church dedicated to the grandmother of Jesus. It is the oldest pilgrimage site in North America (a shrine has been on this site for 350 years). The current Basilica was built in 1923 and is quite awe-inspiring with two towers, sculpted copper doors, mosaic floors, stained glass windows, and in particular a ceiling which has amazing artwork depicting the history of Ste-Anne. 

Ceiling of the Basilica
Door to the Basilica

Front of the Basilica

Sideview of Sainte Anne-de Beaupre

Back on the road again which became very hilly, with occasional magnificent views of the St. Lawrence we drove to towards Tadoussac where the road stops and everyone boards a ferry across the Saguenay River to continue their journey east.  Stopping at Portneuf-sur-Mer for gas for the truck, we also took a break for some ice cream, and no I didn't eat them both. 





We arrived in Baie-Comeau in the late afternoon, and found the information bureau at the harbor.  There was a ship being loaded with large rolls of paper from the nearby Abitibi/Bowater paper mill.  Four freighters were waiting in the sheltered bay to either load or unload their cargo at a nearby ore terminal (could have been bauxite for the aluminum processing plant at Jonquier/Chicoutimi).  This is where we turned off Route 138 onto Highway 389, a partly paved/partly gravel scenic route of 562 Km to Fermont (QC), changing to Hway 500 at the border with Labrador 8 Km further on.  There is limited gas available on this route so we made sure we topped up the gas tank wherever it was available.
We stopped for the night at Manic-2 campground, just past the Manic-2 Dam and Hydro-electric generating station.  We could hear the hum from the campground which was situated on a small lake with a sandy beach.  The campground owners lived in a typically Québeçois house with the curled gables which is needed for all the snow they get in the winter. 




Tuesday, 26 August 2014

We are off on our travels again with the truck and trailer, heading east this time  The plan is to drive east through Quebec to Baie Comeau and up into Labrador through Labrador City, Churchill Falls, and Happy Valley-Goose Bay, then onto the coast to catch a ferry to Newfoundland. We will tour around Newfoundland a bit before catching a ferry  to Sydney, Nova Scotia and meandering home from there.  More blogs and photos to follow depending on access to internet.