Sunday, 19 October 2014

Gander and Twillingate NL


Gander and Twillingate

Back onto the TransCanada Highway, this time travelling west towards Port-aux-Basques and the ferry to Sydney, Nova Scotia on our way  home.  Since the weather was changing to rain in the next day or so we did not go to see Trinity Bay or Bonavista, but headed to Gander, and north to Twillingate on the road to the isles.

Gander is well known for it's airport, with history back to WWII and more recently as a safe haven for many commercial flights after 9/11.  The welcome sign says it all, plus a moose statue, which is the closest we got to the real thing.  Gander also has an Aviation Museum which was interesting to visit.

Welcome sign for Gander





Moose statue


Entrance to the Aviation Museum in Gander

Twillingate is basically an island joined to the mainland by several causeways.  It is known for whale watching and a good place to see Icebergs in Iceberg Alley.  We were too late to see either but it is very picturesque, with cliffs and viewing platforms at Long Point Lighthouse at Crow Head, a large harbour for fishing boats etc.  There was a spectacular sunset over the islands the one evening we were there.




cliffs at Long Point from viewing platform
Fishing Boat leaving Harbour



Sunset



View of part of Twillingate from a high rock

In the small harbour there were several fishing huts and small boats.




Another interesting spot was the Auk winery.  They make wine out of local berries such as partridge berries (lingon berries) , bake apples (cloud berries), blueberries, crowberries, stawberries, raspberries and rhubarb etc.  They have some neat names for their wines - Moose Joose is a blueberry, partidgeberry combination.  We missed the wine soft ice cream, they stop selling it at the end of August.


Entrance to Auk Winery


Moose Joose

From Twillingate, we got back onto the Trans Canada Highway and headed for the ferry at Port-aux-Basques, and the end of our adventure to Newfoundland and Labrador. By the time we got home, we had travelled approximately 9,000 km. 


Map of Newfoundland and Labrador

Thursday, 16 October 2014

St. John's, Newfoundland

St. John's, Newfoundland

On leaving Gros Morne, the search was on for the parts and service to fix the trailer wheel. After going to RV dealers in Corner Brook, Grand Falls-Windsor, we stopped for the night at Gander, then onwards the next day (which was rainy) to Clarenville, and finally to St. John's where the wheel can be fixed next Wednesday.  Apparently moose hunting season has just opened, which explains all the ATV's on trucks going out of St. John's that we saw on the road (Friday).  So we have had 4 days to see the sites of St. John's and area on the Avalon Peninsula, while staying at Pippy Park Campground, very close to the Legislature building and Memorial University Campus.

The weather was to be nice for the first day, partly cloudy for the second, rainy and foggy for the third, then clearing for day four.  So what did we do:

Day 1:  Downtown St. John's for a walk on Water Street and Duckworth admiring all the interesting store fronts and the brightly coloured houses, followed by a trip up to Signal Hill, where you get a nice view of the harbour, with the oil rig tenders, and a cruise ship, Amadea, in port. In the distance along the coastline, one could see Cape Spears, the most easterly point of Canada. 

Pippy Park, with shrouded Legislature Bldg

Mural of life in St. John's

More colourful houses

Entrance to St. John's harbour from Signal Hill

Oil rig tenders in harbour

Cabot Tower on Signal Hill

General view of St. John's Harbour from Signal Hill






















































Cape Spear Lighthouses, old and new

Since it was a nice sunny day we then drove to Cape Spears and walked around the point and the two lighthouses. There was a small tourist tour boat close to shore on it's way to St. John's. On the way back from Cape Spears, we drove down the South Shore road of St. John's harbour to see the small marina for fishing vessels and Fort Amherst, with fortifications and a small lighthouse at the narrow entrance to St. John's harbour.  The next inlet/small protected harbour north of Signal Hill is Quidi Vidi, an old fishing village.

Most easterly land in N. America

Signal Hill from South Shore Road


Fort Amherst Lighthouse
Quidi Vidi Harbour
















Day 2.  A bit cloudy , but not raining so off to Portugal Cove and the ferry to Bell Island in Conception Bay, west of St. John's.  Bell Island is famous for it's iron mines which opened in 1895 and closed in 1966.  The ore is in a 17 foot seam, in rock that is 500 million years old, and is 51% pure. The tunnels from the mines went deep and under the sea in Conception Bay. Now there are tours down mine # 2, which takes you 650 ft underground, and the tour guide takes you through what life was like for the miners & ponies in the early days of the mine, to the changes that mechanization and electricity made to the mining process.  Before World War II, German ships came to load up with iron ore at Bell Island, and during WWII, German U-Boats actually torpedoed 4 ships being loaded up for iron ore going to UK.  One torpedo missed and hit the dock, the only war incident that affected Canada directly.

Car ferry from Portugal Cove to Bell Island

Iron Mine Tour




Mine tour guide explaining mine history

Mine entrance
Bell Island from the ferry







































































Day 3.  Wet and foggy, can't see Signal Hill from the Johnson Geo Centre a showcase of earth and space.  This is a unique centre with indoor and outdoor exhibits based on the geology and natural history of Newfoundland and Labrador.  The Centre is actually built into the rock of Signal Hill which is 450 million years older than the Rocky Mountains. There were also exhibits on the oil exploration off the Grand Banks, and the Titanic Story which laid partial blame on the Captain who thought his ship was unsinkable, and onto the ship's radio officers who were busy sending messages home for passengers and did not pay any attention to the many messages from nearby ships about the iceberg danger.

Day 4.  A short trip south of St. John's to Bulls Bay and Witless Bay (an ecological reserve for sea birds including some islands) on the Irish Loop.  Here we actually passed some dairy farms, hay & corn fields.  The first bit of agriculture we had seen.  Newfoundland and Labrador import most of their dairy products and produce from Quebec and the Maritimes, as the island is truly a "rock".


Bulls Bay, notice caves

Witless Bay































Wednesday, the trailer garage was not able to completely fix the trailer wheel, and they feel the axle needs to be replaced.  They patched the wheel bearing as best they could and sent us on our way.

Tuesday, 16 September 2014

To Gros Morne National Park

South on the Viking Trail to Gros Morne National Park

After two days in St. Anthony we travelled south towards Gros Morne National Park (368 km).  What was interesting along the way was all the jet trails in the sky heading from Europe to spots in North America.  We passed by the land-locked Western Brook Pond and fjord, stopping for a couple of nights at an RV Park in Rocky Harbour.  Cecil had an unforseen issue to deal with from his e-mail , so I explored Rocky Harbour and was able to purchase some fresh halibut from a store at the fishing wharf for supper. 

Jet trails

View from Fishermen's Wharf, Rocky Harbour




















Inland Fjord at Western Brook Pond
After a quick visit to the Visitor Centre the next morning, which was a bit cloudy, we drove to Norris Point, which is situated where Bonne Bay is split between the East Arm and South Arm fjords, by a rocky peninsula and narrow channel (Tickle).  From Norris Point it was possible to see the Tablelands and Woody Point across the South Arm. 

Two Arms and a Tickle

Tablelands and Woody Point from Norris Point

View of Eastern Arm & Southeast Hills

View of South Arm & Tablelands

Bonne Bay from Norris Point

We then drove back to Rocky Harbour, through the village to Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, which provides a vista of the coastline south of Bonne Bay (Lookout Hills).

View of Bonne Bay from Lobster Head Cove Lighthouse

After lunch we headed to the Discovery Centre at Woody Point.  The road has to go around the sea fjords and the Southeast Hills, passing by the highest peak in the park, Gros Morne, which looks like a very smooth, bald, rounded mountain, rather than a peak.
Gros Morne is the bald, rocky hill on the left

The Discovery Centre is an interesting building on a steep hill overlooking the fjords with Gros Morne visible in the distance.  Gros Morne is the highest of the Long Range Mountains in this area, which are actually the glacially eroded end of the Appalachians. Inside the Discovery Centre there was an art exhibit of handmade objects from around the Gros Morne area. The mittens and wooden "dozer" caught our eye.
Wooden bulldozer

Local mittens and balls of wool as art works
 Another hill climb or two took us up to the Tablelands, an area where tectonic plate activity has pushed part of the earth's mantle up to the surface . The orange weathered rock is called peridotite, which is orange on the outside from the oxidation of iron in the rock, but green in the interior.  There is very little plant growth in this area because the minerals in the rock are toxic, due to the high concentration of iron, magnesium and heavy metals.  We took the walking path up to the viewing platform at a small brook (round trip of 4.3 km).


Tablelands

Split piece of mantle rock (peridotite) showing orange exterior and green interior

Back at the truck, we drove around to Trout River, hoping to see a moose or two on the way as they had mentioned in the Centre that there were sightings that day - no luck, though a couple we talked to had recently seen a moose cow and calf.  At Trout River Pond, there is a view of the other side of the Tablelands with a more typical rocky hill on the other side of the lake.  All very scenic.  The last photo is of the Southeast Hills on a misty morning on our way out of the National Park to Deer Lake.

Other sidde of Tablelands from Trout River Pond

Misty morning in the Southeast Hills

The Viking Trail, North West Newfoundland

The Viking Trail,  North West Newfoundland.

From St. Barbe we travelled to St. Anthony on the Viking Trail, going through many small fishing communities perched very close to the water's edge.  Then the road left the coast , and crossed over to the other side of the Northern Peninsula to St. Anthony, through terrain that could be called "moose meadows" - low growing vegetation in bog-like areas changing to hills, small lakes ("ponds") and forests, but no moose to be seen. St. Anthony is cliffy and has a deep safe harbour with fishing vessels, and a large vessel docked that had a landing pad for a helicopter. We got settled in an RV park close to St. Anthony with good internet for a change, and laundry facilities which were much needed.

St. Anthony's Harbour

Ship with helicopter pad




























Shrimp fishing boat

It was still early in the afternoon on a nice sunny day, so we drove  to L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, where the Vikings landed over a thousand years ago.  Based on archeological findings a Viking village has been recreated complete with costumed Vikings to explain their lifestyle (see photos).

L'Anse aux Meadows from the Visitors Centre

Site of the Forge
Reconstructed Viking Village

What's inside ?
Vikings at work















Viking Loom

The Vikings are coming!!!!
There were some interesting sights on the way to L'Anse aux Meadows, including the harbour at St-.Lunaire-Griquet, and an interesting sign saying "Dark Tickle Bridge".  Apparently "Tickle" is the term used for a narrow channel.  One difference between the island (Newfoundland) and Labrador is that the houses are often painted bright colours, rather than being mostly white.

St. Lunaire - Griquet

Dark Tickle Bridge




























Fishing Point Lighthouse is at the entrance to the harbour at St. Anthony, and provided a photo op for the rugged coastline in this area.  The fishing boats in the harbor fish for shrimp, king crab and other species of fish.  A cruise ship had come into harbour in the morning, the National Geographic Explorer, which had been cruising in the Arctic. I heard one passenger up at Fishing Point Lighthouse mentioning Resolute Bay as one of their stopping points.  Back in the Harbour at the Ice House, we had an interesting chat with a retired gentleman, who was raised in St. Anthony, came to work in Ontario, and retired back to St. Anthony.  St. Anthony is also home to the Grenfell Interpretation Centre and Grenfell House Museum.  Sir William Grenfell, a medical doctor, was sent to Newfoundland in 1892 and we have seen his name in several places across Labrador and now in the Northern Peninsula in Newfoundland, relating to hospitals and medical stations he established throughout the area.

National Geographic Explorer Cruise Ship

Cliffs at Fishing Point






















A couple of points of interest on the side of the road are woodpiles - the land is crown-owned, and anyone can get a permit to cut wood in a defined area for personal use.  The other common site is veggie patches surrounded by a fence, usually potatoes, but sometimes carrots, cabbage and other staple veg. Apparently theft and pilfering are not an issue.


Woodpiles at the side of the road

Veggie Patch at the side of the road